I-Winemaker Ethembekile ka-Baja

Yeka indlela umvini ongu-vintner oyedwa e-Valle de Guadalupe obhekana ngayo nesimo sewayini se-organic organic.

Izakhiwo zokungcebeleka ezilahlekile, ezihlelelwe ubukhulu, zihlangene nezindawo ezincane ze-adobe namapaki we-trailer njengoba usuka phansi u-Highway 1 eBaja, eMexico.

Ingxenye yokushayela ikhumbuza isiteleka esivela ku- Walking Dead , nge-graffiti ebopha izakhiwo kuyo yonke indawo futhi enomphefumulo ozungezile. Futhi enye ingxenye ye-drive iyahamba ngezimbopho zemvelo engahlotshwanga yimbonini. Ukusuka eTijuana kuya e-Ensenada, amadolobhana amancane ambalwa aphakathi kwawo asathuthuka futhi ashiywe yedwa ngamabhoksi kanye nokuqhuma kwe-crash yangempela ngonyaka ka-2008.

Lezi zi-pueblos zibukeka zifana nokuthi zenzeke eminyakeni engama-30 kuya kwengu-40 eyedlule futhi ngokumangalisayo ziye zaba yindawo engavumeleki bendawo bezemvelo ukuba baqhubekele ekubhekeni kwempilo yasolwandle kanye nezifundo zezulu.

Ngonyaka wezi-2012, i-Cancun-sizezed resort yayizokwakhelwa e-East Coast yeBaja eCabo Pulmo. Kodwa izimvume zokwakha zakhanselwa ngenxa yesifiso somphakathi sokuvikela i-coral kuphela yamakhorali. Ngemuva kokuphazamiseka kwentuthuko, izinhlangano ze-NGO zinezindlela eziye zahlanjululwa ukuze zithole imali eyengeziwe, imboni yokudoba yaqondiswa ngokwengeziwe, kanti i-Peninsula yeBaja yaba yindawo yokugudluza futhi.

Ukusheshisa kuze kube ngu-2014. I-Wall Street Journal ikhulula isihloko mayelana ne-wine scene e-Baja. Abafokazi baqala ukuthuthela endaweni leyo, manje, ukuzama isandla sabo ekukhuleni. Kodwa-ke, yilabo abakuyo abaphethe umdlalo futhi ngokunjalo kanjalo; bahlukunyeze ukuwohloka kwezomnotho futhi babe namandla ekusebenziseni izinsiza zomhlaba ezizukulwaneni.

Abaningi bafika eBaja ukuze bafike futhi bajabulele ukudla okulwandle olusha. I-ensenda yesikhumulo sezindiza ishaya isivakashi sayo ngqo enkabeni yedolobha. AmaHunong asemakhaya afana neHussong's, indawo yokuzalwa eyi-Margarita, neLa Guerrerense, iloli eliya ku-tostada u-Anthony Bourdain libheke njengenye yezindawo ezinhle kunazo zonke emhlabeni okuzodla, ukubusa kakhulu.

Ngisho nalezi zindawo zokuvakasha ezivivinyayo neqiniso, ukukhiqizwa kwewayini i-Valle de Guadalupe kudlala indima enkulu ekuvuseleleni imboni yezokuvakasha endaweni.

Izivini zaseValle de Guadalupe ziqala cishe ngawo-1520 futhi indawo ibhekwa njengezwe elidala kunazo zonke laseMexico. Isimo sezulu siphumelele ekukhuleni kwamagilebhisi kunomile, isimo sezulu esishisayo kanye nePacific Ocean esiseduze. Abalimi esifundeni baqala ukuhlonipha umhlaba phakathi nawo-1970, kodwa kwakungakaze kube yilapho abantu beqaphela futhi uBaja waba yiNapa Valley yaseMexico. Ingxenye yalokho eyenza indawo iyingqayizivele ukuthi abalimi bangahlanganisa izinhlobo ezahlukene zewayini futhi abaziwa ngokuvuna uhlobo oluthile lwamagilebhisi. Ukukhiqizwa esiGodini kusekusha, ngakho-ke kukhona indawo yokudlala nokubeka ubunikazi.

U-Hugo D'Acosta unguyise wesimo sewayini eBaja. Wazalelwa eMexico City, wafunda i-enology eFrance, futhi wadala i-La Escualita engeyona inzuzo, i-incubator yokufuna abadlali be-winemakers, lapho ebuyela eMexico. I-enologist yaseSwitzerland uThomas Egli manje ugijima esikoleni. Unyaka ngamunye banamathela ekilasini elincane labafundi abafisa ukufunda isiko. Lesi sakhiwo, esakhiwe ngumfowabo kaHugo u-Alejandro, senziwa ngokuphelele ngaphandle kwezinto ezenziwe ngamaphutha futhi ingxenye enkulu yokugxila ekufundiseni i-biodynamics (terroir) ekukhuleni.

I-La Escualita isungulwe ngokwayo njengesisekelo sokusimama esiphezulu sabomakhelwane abafuna ukungena emdlalweni wewayini.

Omunye wemaprotheni kaDac Acosta nguPaul Pijoan, onomnikazi weWinos Pijoan, isitolo sokudlela se-boutique esifundeni. U-Pau, udokotela wezilwane ohlala emhlalaphansi, wathatha ukunqoba njengomsebenzi wokuzilibazisa kuphela ukuthola ukuthi wayenekhono langempela. Ngokushesha waba yingxenye yesizukulwane "sokusakaza" esisha se-vintners futhi manje unemibono ephumelelayo yebhizinisi nokugxeka. Uma ukhuluma nanoma ubani esifundeni, bayazi ukuthi u-Pau ungubani ngenxa yenzalo yakhe no-D'Acosta futhi nokuthi uyakwazi ukudala iwayini lakhe lesignesha.

Lapho ufika esincane (amahektha amahlanu) kodwa isivini esivamile ukhonjiswa yizinja eziningana zokulondolozwa ezithandekayo zomkhaya. U-Pau, umkakhe uLenora, nendodakazi yakhe uPaula yizigcini. Kusobala ukuthi bathululela inhliziyo yabo nomphefumulo wabo ebhizinisini.

Bayakhonza kini ngomfudumalo futhi bazimisele ukwabelana nabo ngezivakashi zabo.

I-Vinos Pijoan ingenye yezitolo ezimbalwa esifundeni esinqume ukuhamba ngezinhlobo zezinto eziphilayo. Ngaphandle kokulandelana kwama-sulfites (isisekelo samagilebhisi asakhulayo), azisebenzisi izinambuzane noma amakhemikhali anonya ekukhiqizeni. Isiqubulo sePijoan sithi "Iwayini Eliqotho", isimangalo esingaboniswa ngendlela izithelo zomvini ezivunwa ngayo. Kusuka ekukhuculeni nasekukhuleni kwintsimi yezitshalo, amaPijoans enza isimo semvelo esivini futhi athembele ezakhiweni zemvelo ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukukhiqizwa kwazo. Bafake izidleke ze-owl emithini yabo njengezinambuzane eziphilayo ezibhekene namagundane ngisho nezinja zisiza ukugcina izidalwa ezingamukeleki. Zithatha izinyosi ezimbili futhi zithengisa uju wendawo okwenziwa kuzo.

I-Syrah, i-Merlot, i-Grenache ne-Cabernet yizampuli zamagilebhisi amaPijoans ahlakulela. Iningi lewayini libizwa ngamabhinqa ayenethonya elibalulekile empilweni kaPawuli futhi "uzama ukufanisa umlingiswa nokuphila komlungu ngamunye womndeni kuye ngokwewayini."

UPhawula ubonisa imikhuba eminingi enobungozi abasebenzisa indodakazi yakhe uPaula isifiso sokuphatha umhlaba ngokucophelela. I-oceanographer ngokuhweba, akumangalisi ukuthi isizinda sikaPaul esayensi sithinta uthando lwakhe lomhlaba. Lapho abazali bakhe bethenga le nkatho, weza ebhodini ukuze asize ukugijima futhi ingadi yaba yiprojekthi yakhe yesilwane. Usebenza kuphela nezitshalo zendabuko ezisehla emagqumeni futhi uyazi kakhulu ukulwa nezinhlobo eziphilayo ngaphandle kokusetshenziswa kwamakhemikhali.

Njengoba imvula ingavamile eSigodini, ama-winemakers kufanele alinganiswe kakhulu ekusebenziseni kwamanzi futhi ngokuvamile ahlukane nezitshalo zabo. Ngenxa yalolu daba, amaPijoans enza kuphela ukukhiqizwa okulinganiselwe kwamacala angu-2500, okuvumela ukuba basebenze ngokunakekelwa okwengeziwe futhi bakhule kuphela okudingekayo. Besekela umphakathi wabo wendawo, bethengisa wonke amagilebhisi abo ezivini eziseduze. Ngaphandle kwenqubo yokuncintisana, amaPijoans abheka wonke umndeni wabo abasebenzi, futhi wonke umuntu uyingxenye ebalulekile ekuphumeleleni kwebhizinisi.

AmaPijoans anesifiso sokukhiqiza iwayini ebonisa ukuthi uhlamvu lomhlaba nomndeni wabo yilokho okwenza bahluke. Baqonda ukuthi umdlalo wesikhathi eside ukhuluma ngokuhlonipha nokusebenza nemvelo njengoba kunjalo, kunokuba uzame ukuthuthukisa. Le mqondo yilapho eyokugcina ivivinye isikhathi njengoba iBaja iqhubeka iguqukela njengendawo yokuvakasha ethandwayo.