Isikhala Esisha Sizinikezele kuMklami Wezithombe Zomlando
Ngo-Okthoba 2017, abalandeli bomlando wezemfashini babona ukuthi isifiso eside esiphethwe sigcwaliseka: ukuvulwa kweyamamyuziyamu aseParis okuzinikezele kuphela empilweni, emsebenzini nasemlandweni we-French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. Izakhiwo eFondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, evule ngo-2002 ngaphakathi kwendawo yokuqala ye-YSL ye-height se-house, ummyuziyamu omusha ubeka isahluko esisha emsebenzini weSisekelo.
Ngenkathi iye yabamba imibukiso embalwa yesikhashana kanye nama-retrospectives ku-trendsetter yesithonjana esiyinkimbinkimbi eminyakeni edlule, ukushintshela "kumyuziyamu" kwenza le projekthi ibheke ubuso bomphakathi. Isikhala sombukiso sesiphindwe kabili, futhi abaklami kanye nabaqambi beza ukuzoyiguqula ibe yendawo eyodwa ephikisanayo efanelekayo emphakathini jikelele.
Noma ubani othanda ukufunda kabanzi mayelana nomklami wesithonjana-kungakhathaliseki ukuthi angama-fashion junkie noma afuna ukwazi ngomlando we-French haute couture kanye neminikelo ephezulu ye-YSL kuyo-imidwebo eminyuziyamu ejulile futhi ehlelwe kahle yesikhashana izongena wena ngqo ezweni lezithonjana lomklami.
I-YSL Nefa Lakhe
Ngesikhathi uSt Laurent efa ngo-2008, abaningi baseFrance babekhala kakhulu ngokulahlekelwa. Lapha kwakunomklami owakhulunywa kabanzi njengendlela yokwakha yesimanje njengoba siyazi. Akunjalo kusukela uCoco Chanel ekhulula abesifazane besimiso se-corsets ngasekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 kunomdali ozayo ukuze avuselele ukuthi yiziphi izambatho zesifazane ezaziyokwazi ukuzenza nokuveza.
Wazalelwa e-Oran, e-Algeria (ngaleso sikhathi kwakuyi-colony yaseFrance) ngo-1936, insizwa uJves yaphupha ngokuba ngumklami wemfashini kusukela esemncane, ebalekela ebuhlungu bokuhlukunyezwa yizingane ezifunda nabo ngokudala izwe elinomqondo othakazelisayo lapho ephethe umthunzi wakhe indlu enhle endaweni eVendome eParis.
Lelo phupho lalizobe likhululekile.
Ngo-1955, insizwa ye-YSL yathatha umsebenzi njengomsizi ongumKristu Dior enhloko-dolobha yaseFrance. Akubanga isikhathi eside ngaphambi kokuba abekwe esihlalweni somklami futhi unikezwe isandla ekwenzeni izicucu zakhe; ngemuva kokushona kukaDior ngo-1957, i-YSL yaqala ukubusa endlini yayo yakha iqoqo lakhe lokuqala lolo mkhiqizo. Impumelelo yokuqala eyinhloko yalandelwa yindlu ephethe ukudonsa ngokwezimali ngaphansi kwabaphathi abasha; Ngama-21 nje kuphela, i-YSL yayisezingeni lomphakathi, kodwa hhayi ngendlela enhle. Kuvele ukuphazamiseka.
Ukuhlangana kukaPeter Bergé, umlingani wakhe wesikhathi esizayo kokubili kokuphila kanye nebhizinisi, kubonakaliswe iphuzu elibalulekile lomklami. U-Bergé, usomabhizinisi we-canny ohlangene nomhlaba wezobuciko kanye nezemfashini, wabambisana ne-Yves osemusha ukuba abelethe ilebuli yefayili ye-YSL - ukukhwabanisa okuzofakazela ubuciko ngenkathi isiko esithandwayo sashintsha kude neminyaka engu-1950 enesibindi futhi zibe "60s" ezimibalabala, ezingenangqondo nezivivinywa.
I-YSL ayidlulanga nje kuphela umoya we-quirky futhi odlala ukudlala kwale minyaka eyishumi, naye wasiza ukuyidala nge-avant-garde yakhe kodwa namanje amaqoqo amaningi agqokekayo. Isiko se-Art ne-pop siboniswe kuyo yonke imiklamo yakhe yokuthumba, kusukela ekushicileleni kukaPiet Mondrian kanye ne-pop-art yafaka izingubo emidwebeni yeqoqo kusukela emasikweni amasiko aseMorocco, eNdiya nase-Afrika.
Mhlawumbe ubukeka bakhe obuphawulekayo, yilokho okuhlose ukukhulula abesifazane besifazane abathandekayo besifazane bendabuko: ama-tuxedos, ama-suits suit, nesiginesha esithi "Le Smoking" suit nazo zonke izingxenye ezingapheli zomlando wezemfashini nezenhlalakahle. Lezo zitayela zichaza kabusha ukuthi yikuphi ukubhekwa kwabesifazane okungahle kubonakale - ukungasho ukuthi abesifazane "bavunyelwe" kanjani ukuhambisa izingubo zabo. Ngenkathi abesifazane abaningi, bebengakwazi ukuthenga amathegi wamanani entengo ephezulu, imiklamo ye-YSL yathonya ukuthi izingubo zenziwe kanjani futhi zithengiswa kuwo wonke amaphuzu amanani. Ifa lakhe elihlala njalo njengelinye lamadizayini anethonya elikhulu leminyaka lama-20 kunzima ukulinganisa.
Umbukiso Wokuvula: A New Thatha Izingxenye Signature YSL
Evuliwe ngothando olukhulu ngo-Okthoba, ukuboniswa kokuqala emnyuziyamu kugijima kuze kube nguSeptemba 9, 2018-ukunikeza izivakashi isikhathi esiningi sokuzibona.
Qinisekisa ukugcina amathikithi kusengaphambili, noma kunjalo; lo mbukiso uhlala udume kakhulu kubo bobabili bendawo nabavakashi.
Egcinwe ekamelweni elifanayo lapho izitolo ze-YSL nezindlu zokusebenzela sezimi khona, uxhumano lokuvula luhlanganisa ndawonye imiklamo emihle yama-couture ama-50 avela emaqoqweni ahlukene, kanye nemidwebo, izithombe, amafilimu nezesekeli ezihlobene nalokhu.
Eyakhelwe ukunikeza izivakashi ukubuka okuningiliziwe kwezikhathi ezinkulu kanye nemikhakha yomsebenzi we-YSL, ezinye zezingcezu zakhe nezithombe ezibonakalayo zikhona, kusukela egqokeni le-safari kuya kwengubo yomgodla, igqoke leMondrian kanye nesambatho "Le Smoking" eshiwo ngenhla. Ezinye zezingcezu ezimibalabala nezivivinyayo ziphuma ekuthandeni komklami ngesitayela namasiko amasiko aseMorocco, eChina, eNdiya, eRussia naseSpain; ukuvakashelwa kuhlelwe ngezingxenye ezizungezile ezingxenyeni zezingcezu zezingcezu ezenziwe ngalezi zithethe zamasiko.
Okokugcina, amakamelo amabili engeziwe kulo mbukiso anikeza ngokubheka ngokujulile impilo yomuntu siqu nomsebenzi womklami. Okokuqala kugxile ekubambisaneni okuthakazelisayo, okuhlukumezayo kodwa okuzinikele phakathi kukaYSL noBergé (labo abashona ngo-September 2017). I-"IKhabhinethi yezobuchwepheshe", okwamanje, inikeza izivakashi ithuba lokubona ukuthi izici ezihlukene kanjani ezidalweni zezinto eziphezulu ze-designer zasetshenziselwa futhi zisetshenziselwa, kusukela ezimpaphe kuya esikhwameni, futhi zinikeza ukuqonda ngokubambisana okuyinkimbinkimbi phakathi kwabadwebi nabadwebi bemifashini.
Imibukiso ezayo
Isiboniso sokuqala esilandelayo ngemuva kokubukwa kokuqala, okusebenza kusukela ngo-Okthoba 2018 kuya kuJanuwari 2019, sizogxila ekuphefumulweni kwe-Asian, okubheka kokubili izinto zakhe ezibonakalayo nezithombe ezingaphezu kwe-gardens kanye nemisebenzi ebalulekile yobuciko obuhle obuvela e-Asia.
Bheka leli khasi ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe kwezinye iziboniso ezizayo emnyuziyamu, kanye nemininingwane yokuthenga amathikithi.
Indawo kanye nolwazi lokuxhumana:
I-museum itholakala enqabeni yokuthula, ikakhulukazi yokuhlala e- 16th district (esifundeni) saseParis, e-workshop ye-YSL yangaphambili. Qinisekisa ukuthi uhlola amamyuziyamu amaningi anamuhla anesakhiwo samanje nePalais Galliera, ephethe iminyuziyamu enhle kakhulu yaseParis yomlando wezemfashini.
Ikheli / ukufinyelela:
IsiFondation Pierre Bergé / Yves Saint Laurent
5, avenue Marceau
Metro / RER: uFranklin D. Roosevelt noma uBosisière (Imigqa
Ucingo: +33 (0) 1 44 31 64 00
Vakashela iwebhusayithi esemthethweni (ngesiNgisi)
Amahora Wokuvula Namathikithi:
I-museum ivuliwe kusukela ngoLwesibili kuya kuLwesihlanu kusukela ngo-11: 30 ekuseni ukuya ku-6: 00 ntambama, futhi ngezimpelasonto kusukela ngo-9: 30 ekuseni kuya ku-6: 00. Ukufakwa kokugcina kungu-5: 15 ntambama ngoMsombuluko ovalekile, kanye nakuDisemba 25, kuJanuwari 1, 1 kuMeyi. Iminyango ivalwa masinyane ngo-4: 30 ntambama ngoDisemba 24 (ngoNovemba) noDisemba 31 (u-Eva Wonyaka Omusha).
Ukuvula ebusuku: KuLwesihlanu lwesithathu inyanga ngayinye, i-museum ihlala ivulekile kuze kube ngu-9: 00 ntambama. Ukungena kokugcina ku-8: 15 ntambama.
Amanani wokungena: Bona leli khasi kuwebhusayithi esemthethweni yamanani wamanje. I-museum inikeza ukungena mahhala kubantwana abangaphansi kweminyaka eyi-10 ubudala, izivakashi ezikhubazekile nomuntu oyedwa ohamba naye, nabafundi bomlando wobuciko kanye nemfashini (ekubonisweni kwekhadi lomfundi elivumelekile).
Ukufinyeleleka: I-museum ifinyeleleka ngokugcwele kwezivakashi eziningi ezikhubazekile, ezivunyelwe mahhala kumamyuziyamu. Izivakashi zingacela isihlalo sabakhubazekile ngokubhuka; xhumana nabasebenzi ngocingo noma ku- @ museeyslpariscom.
Iziqhingi kanye nezokuvakasha eziseduze:
I-Art Museum Yamanje Yedolobha laseParis : i-stop edingekayo yabalandeli bezobuciko besikhathi samanje, iqoqo le-museum lamanje lamanje likhululekile ngokuphelele; futhi qinisekisa ukubona imiboniso yesikhashana ehlangene nePalais de Tokyo, futhi uthathe imibono ekhudlwana ye- Eiffel Tower kanye nomkhathi omkhulu owaziwa ngokuthi yiTrocadero kusuka emathafeni angaphandle ajoyina lezi zimyuziyamu.
I-Palais Galliera: Le ndlu ekhangayo ibeka iParis Fashion Museum, enye kumele ibone-isikhala kunoma ngubani owaziyo ukuthi umlando wemfashini nomlando wezenhlalo unemicu eminingi ehlangene. Imiboniso yesikhashana ekhangayo igxile emzimbeni we-couture Balenciaga, izitayela zesitayela kusukela ngawo-1950, kanti iFranco-yaseGibhithe idinga ithonya likaMalidoni emasikweni nasendatsheni ethandwayo.
I-Avenue des Champs Elysées: Nakuba kungalungile ekhoneni, ukuhamba ngomzuzu wamaminithi angu-15 noma ukuhamba komgwaqo omfishane kuzokuletha endaweni evelele kakhulu emhlabeni, ne- Arc de Triomphe enkulu kakhulu emhlanganweni wayo. Ungase ufise ukuhlola izitaladi ezifana ne- Avenue Montaigne , odumile ngamapulasitiki akhethiwe ephezulu kanye ne-chic jikelele.